Oil in water emulsion skin care8/16/2023 This step would take up to half and hour till the lecithin is completely hydrated. Sodium hydroxide (25% solution) a few drops to adjust the pHġ- In a beaker blend lecithin and 5-6% of the hydrosol. Try this simple and basic formulation to get ready for more complicated emulsions. It is totally up to you which lecithin you apply. Rapessed and sunflower based lecithin usually have a darker colour than the soybean lecithin. You can however blend gums that make a synergetic gel for a higher viscosity cream gel.įor this introductory tutorial, I've prepared a very basic emulsion with no extracts and as basic additives as possible and I've used a rapeseed lecithin in a paste form. Not quite suitable for spraying but perfect for an emulsion pump. ![]() The emulsions created in this way have a low to medium viscosity. Adjust the pH, add the preservative and voila, you have an excellent nice and smooth O/W emulsion. You can add the gum into the water phase orĪdd the gum at this stage at the end of the blending. This step should be performed very slowly with a good blending after adding each aliquote. Now it's time to add the rest of the water phase with all its active ingredients. The add just a small part of your oil phase (as much as lecithin) and blend this well together.Īfter that you can slowly and gradually add the rest of the oil phase (het the oil phase if you have butters and other solid components or ingredients that need heating) while stirring. You have to hydrate lecithin with water (up to twice the lecithin weight) and let it hydrate. This is the most trifling and time-consuming part of the whole work and if it doesn't work well the emulsion would separate soon. You have to hydrate the lecithin in the water phase (water or a hydrosol). And it works cold process, but you can heat your solid ingredients as well. ![]() The credit for O/W lecithin hydrogels goes to my dear friend " Heike Käser" from Olionatura who is certainly the queen of DIY cosmetics in German speaking territory. I should mention that this is no invention and no innovation of mine. It is however possible to create very nice and light O/W emulsions with lecithin. Lecithin is most often known as a natural W/O emulsifier and most often it creates sticky, greasy and heavy-feeling emulsions and creams. It is however a little bit tricky and intimidating. Lecithin is certainly the most truely "natural" emulsifier in skin care.
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